Comparison

Diamond vs Cubic Zirconia

CZ is the substitute you are most likely to run into, and unlike moissanite it fails almost every test. Five things separate it, and you can check three of them without any equipment.

Side by side

PropertyDiamondCubic zirconia
Mohs hardness108 to 8.5
Specific gravity3.525.6 to 6.0
Refractive index2.422.15
Dispersion (fire)0.0440.060
Thermal conductivityExceptionalPoor
Ages wellIndefinitelyClouds and scuffs in a year or two
Rough price per caratThousandsA few dollars

1. The weight is wrong

This is the fastest check if the stone is loose. CZ is around 60 percent denser than diamond, so a CZ cut to the same dimensions as a one carat diamond weighs closer to 1.6 carats. In the hand it feels heavy for its size in a way that is hard to describe but easy to notice once you know to look for it.

2. It holds fog

Diamond is the best thermal conductor of any natural material and CZ is an insulator. Breathe on both and the diamond clears in about a second while the CZ stays misted for two to four. This works on mounted stones, which makes it the most practical check for a ring you are wearing.

3. You can almost read through it

At a refractive index of 2.15, CZ bends light hard but not as hard as diamond. Place a loose stone flat side down on printed text: through a diamond you see nothing at all, through a CZ you will usually catch distorted shapes or light coming through. Any ambiguity in that result is itself informative.

4. Too much rainbow

CZ disperses light about 35 percent more than diamond does, so it throws more colour and less white brilliance. In sunlight it can look almost gaudy next to a diamond of the same cut. On its own this is a soft signal, since cut quality affects it heavily, but it is a reasonable first impression.

5. It ages badly

The most reliable tell on any piece more than a couple of years old. Everyday dust contains quartz at Mohs 7, which does not touch a diamond but slowly abrades a CZ at 8 to 8.5. Look at the facet edges: rounded, scuffed edges and a milky surface mean CZ that has been worn. A stone that looks as crisp as the day it was set is a good sign.

Not sure what you are looking at?

Photograph the stone and the app gives you a visual read on the 4Cs, an estimated value range, and what to check next. Free on iOS and Android.

Download on the App StoreGet it on Google Play

Frequently asked questions

Is cubic zirconia heavier or lighter than diamond?
Substantially heavier. CZ has a specific gravity of around 5.7 against diamond at 3.52, so a CZ of the same physical size weighs roughly 60 percent more. If you have handled diamonds before, a loose CZ feels wrong in the palm immediately.
Does cubic zirconia get cloudy over time?
Yes, and it is the giveaway on any older piece. At 8 to 8.5 on the Mohs scale it is softer than the dust and grit it meets every day, so after a year or two of wear the facet edges scuff and the surface takes on a milky look. Diamond at 10 stays sharp indefinitely.
Can a jeweller tell instantly?
Instantly. A thermal tester separates diamond from CZ without ambiguity, because CZ is a poor thermal conductor. Unlike the moissanite problem, there is no overlap here at all.
Is CZ worth anything?
As a material, effectively nothing. A one carat CZ costs a few dollars. Its value in a piece is whatever the metal and the workmanship are worth, which is why it turns up so often in silver and plated settings.

Worth being clear: everything here, and the app itself, is an educational reference. At-home tests narrow things down, they do not certify a stone. Before you buy, sell or insure anything of real value, get it looked at by a certified gemologist or an independent appraiser.

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